Fabric softness, hand, drape, and appearance continue to influence consumer demand for apparel products. Fabric hairiness is one attribute of a fabric that has some correlation to softness, hand and appearance of the fabric. For example, a fabric with a higher hairiness value is generally associated with a perceived soft hand and supple fabric. Hairiness refers to the amount of fibers and/or fibers ends protruding from the surface of the fabric. While improved softness is associated with higher hairiness values, so are higher pilling rates, or pill counts. Thus, the designer is tasked to minimize these negative effects of increased hairiness.
Fiber, yarn and finishing process selection allows designers to influence the hairiness of fabrics and balance softness and pilling rates. Ring spun and open end yarns are two yarns, among others, that are used to manufacture knit fabrics for apparel. Structural differences between these yarns yield fabrics with different surface characteristics. For example, ring spun yarns typically have fiber ends emanating from the yarn. Open ends yarns, however, typically have fibers wrapped around a core bundle of fibers. Thus, fabrics manufactured with ring spun yarns, i.e., ring spun fabrics, can have higher hairiness values and are typically softer than fabrics manufactured with open end yarns. Consumers continue to desire ring spun fabric qualities in apparel such as T-shirts and underwear. Knit manufacturers, however, can realize increased cost savings and decreased manufacturing complexity using open end yarns.
Several finishing processes can be used to impart ring spun fabric qualities to knit fabrics produced from open-end or other types of yarns. One such process abrades a fabric to cut and raise the surface of the yarns. This process, known as sueding, yields a raised nap producing a soft, smooth surface texture resembling suede leather.
Sueding has several disadvantages such as the additional processing steps required, and the inefficiencies related to width utilization and increased fabric costs. Generation of lint, fly, and abrasive dust during processing raises environmental concerns for machine operators. Streaks in the fabric, reduction in strength, and shade changes during dying are other disadvantages associated with sueding.
Thus, there is a need for a knit fabric and a method of knitting fabrics having improved surface characteristics and softness, reduced pilling rates, lower costs and decreased manufacturing complexity.